Gone To Earth

Tutorial - An envelope back cushion cover

... or envelope back pillow if you prefer.

I love cushions around the house, they can add such a burst of colour and you can make covers like these with even the most modest of sewing skills. 

 So, lets make a cushion cover..... a simple envelope backed cushion cover.

You will need;

•  a cushion insert which are available from all kinds of places.  (My cushion insert is an easily obtainable 40cm by 40cm)
• Fabric  - enough to cut one piece the same size as the cushion insert, plus 1cm for the seam allowances.  (So, for a 40cm by 40cm cushion insert you want a piece of fabric 42cm by 42cm.)

 

 

(Lots of colours and patterns to create something beautiful with)

• Fabric enough to cut two back pieces each 42cm by 35cm. (Fabric used for the back doesn't have to be same as the fabric used for the front - mix them up for a bit of contrast if you like.)
• scissors or rotary cutter and board
• Matching thread
• tape measure
• pins

Fabric Notes: I'm using home decor weight fabric for this project but medium/quilt weight fabric also makes a very nice cushion cover.  You may not need to buy new fabric you may already have enough for what you need.  You can salvage fabric from an old unwanted duvet cover, sheets or curtains, use pieces left over from other projects, but be  bold.  This is not intended to be a beige project... beige has it's own place in the crafting world but it isn't here amongst the cushions.  Not today anyway.

To make your cushion cover;

Cut one piece of fabric 42cm by 42cm (this will help keep the cushion fairly plump looking.

Cut two back pieces 42cm by 35cm.

Hem the back pieces - Take one of the back pieces and fold one of the 42cm edges over by 1cm.  Iron this into place. 

(A handy little sewing gauge.)

Turn it over another 1 cm and iron that down to make your double folded hem.  Pin this down if it helps to keep everything in place.  

4. Take this to your sewing machine and sew down the edge of your folded seam.

5. Repeat this with the other back piece.  Remembering that if your fabric has a one way/directional pattern you need to consider this, as you will want to have the pattern all the facing the same way.

6. Place the front piece face up on your work surface.  Lay one back piece right side facing down onto the front piece, aligning the top edge and the bottom edge. The un-hemmed side edge should line up with the outer edge of the cushion front.

7.  Take the second back piece and place it right side facing down onto the other fabric pieces. Align the top and bottom edges as before.  The un-hemmed edge needs to line up with the outer edge of the cushion front.   

There will be an overlap in the middle, with no ‘front piece’ fabric showing. (This forms the the ‘envelope’)   

8.  Pin this into position to hold everything in place.

9. Take this to the sewing machine and sew all the way around the ‘square’, using a 1cm seam allowance.   Move any pins out of the way so that you don't break your needle as you sew.  

10. Fasten off any trailing threads so there's nothing likely to come undone at any point in your soon-to-be cushions life.

 
11. Trim fabric away from the corners to reduce bulk and give give you nice corners when you turn your new cover inside out.  

12. Turn the cover inside out.

13.  Give it a little press to tidy it up...

 

 14.  Insert cushion insert.

 

15.  Admire!  Fetch a book or magazine, make yourself a cup of tea or coffee and give it a road test.

 

Or then again you might just have to make one or two more ....

Enjoy!   

Christmas making...

If you're trapped stuck inside because of the dreadful weather outside, how about some Christmas crafting to keep yourself occupied?  I thought I'd gather together a few of the pretty christmassy tutorials I've seen around the blogging world.

There are Christmas baubles made from fabric;

Fabric Baubles from Martha Stewart.

A pretty mitten ornament available as a free PDF download from Oliver + S

 I saw this on Domesticali's blog - a paper pinecone.

 

Isn't that effective? 

Mini stockings, another pretty idea from Marta Stewart.  This would be good to make with children, probably occupy them for ages ... you can hope:)

A little more felt fun ...

Aren't they lovely?

 

If you've a bit more time on your hands, how about personalised placemats to add some festive cheer to your Christmas table?

Personalised Placemats from the Moda Bakeshop.

A lovely fabric chain.  These look like fun to make.

I've made these paper ornaments for a few years now... in each years Christmas colour theme.  I love them, they're not hard to make but they create a bit of an impact. 

You'll find the downloadable instructions here

How about a Christmas stocking?  Everyone needs one of those don't they ?

There is a free PDF pattern and instructions for this available from Denyse Schmidt's website.

or these from Tanya Whelan of Grand Revival Designs.  These are linked off on the right sidebar and come with pattern pieces and instructions.

What are you decorating your home with this Christmas time?

Undies...

Has it ever crossed your mind to make your own undies...  

Undies is probably a too ordinary word for these. These are 'Madeleine mini Bloomers'  a free pattern and instructions download from Colette. Cute and flirtatious aren't they?

Colette have other 'Dainties' patterns.... all very pretty

The Nutmeg sewing Pattern consists of a bralette with ribbon straps, it ties at the back again with ribbon and includes French knickers and/or optional tap pants... (what are tap pants?). The description says they have "a pointed yoke are longer and sit at the natural waist." Both designs are cut on the bias to maximise drape and flatter feminine curves.

The Cinnamon is a bias cut slip dress the pattern also includes instruction to make a camisole to compliment the Nutmeg undies set.

 

The Cinnamon - Flattering bias cut dress or

 

  A camisole shown here with the Nutmeg bralette and Knickers set.

I don't think there's much to say about these gorgeous patterns, they say it all for themselves.  So next time you're fancying something different to make or the high street just isn't supplying what you want... remember these. Feminine, gorgeous, flirtatious, retro, cute and maybe a little dangerous ( :) ) you couldn't really imagine wearing anything else under those gorgeous Colette dress designs, could you?

I wonder what Colette are suggesting by naming the patterns after spices?  I'm saying nothing!

A how-to for Lamifix from Vilene

If you've never come across Lamifix before. This is it.

It's made by Vilene and it's part of their Creatives range. It's a transparent 'film' which you fuse to fabric and gives it a wipeable surface..... turns it into something a bit like an oilskin except you don't need any special sewing machine feet to be able to sew it.

Why would you want such a thing? Well, because it gives ordinary fabric a wipeable surface. It's suggested uses are; lunchbags, cosmetic bags. beach bags. tote bags, pencil cases, but I know that it's also being used to make wipeable place mats... wipeable baby changing mats that coordinate with baby 'changing bags'. Good idea that! I bet you can think lots more. So, if you do think of anything else then please share.... (Note: fabric cannot be laundered once lamifix has been fused to fabric.)

It doesn't look like much.... almost like a catering grade cling film. It comes in two finishes, this one has a glossy finish to it. It comes with quite detailed instructions about how to use it and how to apply the Lamifix to fabric. 

Basically, the 'film' is fused to fabric using the heat of an iron. However, there are a couple of necessary steps to follow to ensure success. First of all, you need to make sure that your fabric is smooth with no wrinkles and that the lamifix is free of any lint. It is inclined to be a little static but any 'bits' it does pick up can be lightly dusted away with a soft, lint free cloth. 

The complete instructions are on the shop, but ... I've found a little video made by Vilene which shows you exactly how to apply the lamifix to fabric.

Lamifix applied to some medium weight fabric.... it remains flexible like the original cloth - but now has a glossy finish and can be wiped clean. Lamifix product video made by Vilene.

Brilliant isn't it? So, much clearer than instructions ...... there are videos for all the other Vilenes too..... perhaps I should get out more :)

Speak soon ....

Tutorial - yo-yo christmas tree decoration

This is a Christmas yo-yo, it's flouncy, it has sparkle and will make the fairy on top of the tree just a little envious. Plus, it's fun to make and there is loads of scope for adding beads, sequins and maybe even a little glitter if that's what makes you happy.

This takes just a very few minutes to make.

Requirements;

• Fabric for your yo-yo's (This yo-yo was made from an 18 centimetre (approximately 7 inch) diameter circle.
• Paper to make a circle template with.
• Interfacing or cardboard from a cereal box (enough for a 7 centimetres (approximately 2 3/4 inch) diameter circle.
• Some green felt (enough to cut three holly leaves)
• Some white felt (enough to provide an edging of snow for the holly leaves)
• Some broderie anglaise, lace, ribbon or ric-rac for edging (if using)
• Button for the centre of the yo-yo
• Suitable cord or ribbon to hang the decoration with
• Embroidery floss if you're going to embroider the holly leaves
• Thread and needle
• Textile glue (optional)

1. Create yourself a template for the circle or find a conveniently sized plate or jar lid to drawn around. Cut out the circle of fabric. This yo-yo was made from a 18cm (approximately 7 inches) diameter circle.

2. Cut out a circle of the interfacing or cardboard. For this size of yo-yo it needs to be about 7 centimetres (approximately 2 3/4 inches) in diameter. If you are using cardboard it is a good idea to cut a small circle out of the middle so that it doesn't become too difficult to get a needle through later when you are sewing on the button.

3. Make yourself a pattern for the holly leaves which need to be about 8 centimetres (approximately 3 inches) in length. Cut out three holly leaves from the green felt.

4. Using a holly leaf as a pattern (one of the ones you've just cut out of the green felt) , cut out three holly shaped leaves from the white felt with a margin that shows around the outside of the green leaf. (These will be attached to the back of the holly leaves to resemble a fringing of snow, after the embroidery is finished.)

5. Make your yo-yo by turning over a 1/4 inch hem (see this tutorial here if you've never made a yo-yo before) and using a doubled thread sew evenly sized running stitches all the way around.

6. Begin to gently pull up your yo-yo and insert your piece of interfacing/cardboard into the 'mouth' of the yo-yo. (If you want to make large yo-yo's for decoration or brooches out of soft fabrics, this is a good way of preventing the yo-yo from flopping forward when it is hanging.) [

7. Make sure that the interfacing/cardboard is centred in your yo-yo so that you get a nice even shape. Pull the fabric up tightly and taking your needle through to the back of the yo-yo fasten off the thread.

8. The leaves. If you are going to embroider a little detail onto the leaves then now is the time to do so. I just used a little stem stitch down the centre with a silky lime green floss. One thing I do like in my christmas decorations is a little shine and sparkle!

9. Centre the green holly leaves onto the white holly leaves so that it looks as if the leaves are fringed with a little snow. Once you're happy with the arrnagement either stitch them together or use a little textile glue. I cheated and used the textile glue !

10. If you are going to add a fringe of broderie anglaise, ribbon or ric-rac to your yo-yo, that needs adding now. I used quite a wide broderie anglaise rescued from an old skirt of my daughters. I used about 12 inches of it and ran a gathering stitch along the lower edge and pulled it up tight. Even out the gathers a little and you end up with a pretty gathered rosette type shape.

11. Attach the ribbon or cord that you are going to use for hanging the decoration with, to the back of the broderie anglaise rosette. (I used about 12 inches of cord, folded in half so that I can tie it onto the tree at whatever length seems right )

12. Arrange the holly leaves behind the yo-yo. Once you're happy with how they look either stitch or glue them into place. (I sewed them on this time.)

13. Attach the broderie anglaise 'ruff' to the back of the yo-yo by sewing through the yo-yo and the broderie anglaise.

14. Choose a button that makes you happy and sew it in the centre of the yo-yo and there you have it a Christmas yo-yo to add to your tree.

I hope you like this little 'make' and if you do create one using this tutorial then please add it to the Flickr group. I'd love to see them.

Tutorial A Fabric Flower brooch

Sorry that this has taken soooo long but here it is;

This is really a little origami with fabric, and it works out equally well in paper.... cards... maybe?

Requirements;

I made my brooch using all the same fabric, but it can look equally pretty if you make the large petals in one fabric and the small petals in a contrasting fabric. You can make the flower with petals all the same size if you wish and can even throw caution to the wind and have each petal in a different colour.... just have fun with it.

These flowers can be used as an embellishment for all kind of things - think of a smaller flower used to adorn headbands or hair clips or fixed on to bags.

• fabric - enough to cut six 3 1/2 inch squares (for the large petals) and six 2 1/2 inch squares (for the small petals)
• matching thread
• needle
• scissors
• button - for the centre. (Beads can look good too)
• brooch back
• a small piece of felt to create a backing for the flower
• fabric glue (optional)

This first step is a little unusual, thread your needle. (You'll be grateful.... really you will) I use a double thread and tie a neat knot in the end. Then place a square of fabric right side facing down and fold diagonally, corner to corner to make a triangle.

Next, take the bottom left corner of the triangle and fold it over to meet the point.

O.K. This next step will test how nimble your fingers really are....

Fold the bottom right corner over to meet at the top, in exactly the same way as you did with the first corner.

You are now looking at something which is square in shape with the folded seams down the middle.

Holding on firmly to the square, turn it over, so that it's face down on your mat, table or whatever.

Can you still feel the folds with your finger? Bring the bottom corner over to the middle and hold in position. .

Then, fold the other corner into the middle. You should be looking at a kind of irregular shaped hexagon of fabric.....

which is probably making a bid for freedom, trying to escape and unfold itself, but onwards....

Now, fold the two straight edges together as if you were closing a book.

If you look at the shape you should have oneside that looks like this; folds at the top and open edges at the bottom.

Don't let go....

Now for some sewing. I know that it's more usual to just thread these petals together at this point but I've sometimes found that the folds at the back can spring open. So, just to make sure that they don't, I put a little stitch at the bottom - like so. (Now you're pleased we threaded the needle first aren't you? Caused me some grief that step....)

Next cut off the triangle of fabric at the bottom of the fabric shape - if makes it easier to gather up the petals when you've finished because it elimnates this unnecessary bulk.

....seriously large scissors !...

That's it, your first petal.... now you just have to make the others...

When you've made all your petals, the next step is to string them together. Use a doubled thread - don't forget the knot in the end and string one large petal, followed by one small petal etc until all the petals are strung together. Don't pull too tightly.

.. beginning to look pretty isn't it?

Once all the petals have been strung together, pass the needle back through the first petal to join the circle.

... almost there - just the finishing touches

I used a 29mm cover button, covered in the same fabric as my flower. (See this tutorial - Link). Again, you can use any kind of button or beads just to finish and decorate the middle of your flower.

Looking at your flower you may wish to just manipulate the flower petals into position before sewing on the felt. I think that this flower looks neater and more pleasing to the eye, if the top and bottom petals are opposite one another with the large side petals sticking out a bit like butterfly wings. The smaller petals will then sit nicely in-between.

It sometimes helps to use a little fabric glue to secure the button tightly to the flower (eliminates wiggles! - if you know what I mean) but I would always sew the button on too.

Use a little glue - just around the edge...

The next step involves cutting a small round of felt to create a backing for the brooch. It doesn't need to be large because there's no unsightlness involved in making this, but it gives something to sew a button and a brooch back on to.

Sew on your felt, but don't pull too tightly or you risk distorting the shape.

Sew on the brooch back - turn it over and admire it.

Pleased with it ?

Tutorial: Heart shaped yo-yo ' s

Thank you for the lovely comments on the yo-yo tutorial. This post is about yo-yo's too but heart shaped ones this time. Well, it is getting close to St Valentine's Day.

All yo-yo's are basically gathered rosettes of fabric which can be made to take on different shapes dependant upon the starting shape of the piece of fabric and the fabric you use to make it with. Therefore, a heart shaped yo-yo begins with a heart shaped piece of fabric. Just like the circular yo-yo's these yo-yo's aren't difficult to make so please don't be put off from trying one just because the instructions seem a little long. Once you've made one you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

Requirements

Note: The completed yo-yo will be half the size of the ’starting’ heart shape. This applies to both the width of the heart and the length. Hopefully this photo makes what I'm trying to say a little clearer.

Quite a startling difference isn't it.

To make a heart shaped yo-yo you will need the following things;

• pencil
• fabric - cotton, felt, velvet, polyester cotton, sheers, denim, fleece - what else can you think of...
• sewing thread to match the fabric
• needle
• scissors
• paper or light card (to make a pattern with or template with)
• non permanent fabric marker (to draw around template) or pins to pin pattern to your fabric.

The first step is to make yourself a pattern for the heart.

I made this heart pattern using Auto shapes on Word - but you can trace shapes out of books or draw them freehand. Once you have your heart shape, you need to add a seam allowance all the way around the outside of approximately 5mm.

As you can see my paper pattern is 11 cm across the widest part of the heart. I added on a 5mm seam allowance and this gave me a completed fabric yo-yo of approximately 5.5 cm.

Pin your pattern to the fabric or if you made a cardboard template draw around it with your non-permanent fabric marker.



Cut out your heart shapes.

Thread your needle. I usually use a double thread for this, but you can use a strong, quilting thread if you have some. What you're trying to avoid is the thread breaking as you begin to gather up the fabric.

With the right side of the fabric facing down, start sewing at the 'indent' at the top of the heart. Fold over the 5mm seam allowance and begin sewing.

Using a medium sized running stitch, sew all around the outside of your shape. As you sew around the heart, do not agonise trying to make flat seams which lay nicely. The aim is to maintain the shape of the heart and if it tends to look just a little bit puckered, it's o.k.



At the bottom of the heart just fold the seam allowance over but avoid creating pleats or folds which will make pulling up the threads difficult. Sew all the way around the heart with the last stitch ending at approximately the same point as the first stitch. This ensures that the fabric gathers up neatly.



The fun bit. Gently pull up the thread to gather the yo-yo. You may need to push the fabric inside as you gather it. If your gathering thread snags at any point, just ease the gathers along gently.



At this point, what you will have is a gathered piece of fabric that may or may not look like a heart. Don't be disappointed we haven't finished yet!

For the next step you need to distribute the gathers evenly. Wiggle your fingers inside to push out any 'puffs' of fabric that have got caught up behind other bits. Centre the 'throat' or hole of the yo-yo and move it down a little to get that heart shape.

Note: I haven't fastened off the thread yet.

Once you're happy that you've distributed the gathers evenly, insert your needle through the 'hole' at the front, taking it to the back of the yo-yo. This pulls the gathers in nicely.

Next, bring the thread back over the top of yo-yo and insert the needle back through the yo-yo passing it from the front to the back. The photo will hopefully make this clearer.



What you've just done is make a loop from the back over to the front. Pull on your thread gently which will pull in the gathers at the front of the yo-yo and also pull in the top of the yo-yo creating that characteristic indent at the top of the heart shape.

Now, we need to fasten off the gathering threads. With your needle take the thread from the front to the back of the yo-yo and fasten off.

Your yo-yo really should be heart shaped now!

Nearly done. The last and final thing you need to do is to secure those gathers around the throat of the yo-yo.



If you've used a very fine and light fabric you may chose not to do this. Otherwise, thread your needle and insert it from the back of the yo-yo and using a small, almost invisible stitch, secure those gathers into position. This pulls the gathers in tightly around the inside of the 'hole' or throat of the yo-yo pulling them in, flattening the centre and emphasising the pretty little shape.

There, you see, all finished.



Pleased with it? Now you have a gorgeous little heart yo-yo which you can embellish with buttons and beads and braids and ..... let your imagination run wild. (I'd love to know what you do with them.)

If there's anything I haven't explained very well, then just 'comment' or send me an e-mail and I'll try and explain myself better. Enjoy!

How to make a fabric Yo-yo

Happy New Year to you all and I hope you enjoyed Christmas and that Santa was kind.

I quite enjoyed the cold, frosty weather over Christmas but I'm thoroughly fed up with the -6 and -7 0C tempertures and the snow of the last few days.  Living on a hill has taken on a whole new dimension in the 'standing up' stakes, I can tell you.

Do you remember the 'gathering of yo-yo's', which eventually became a Christmas ornament?

Well I thought I'd write a little tutorial about how to make a simple fabric yo-yo without the aid of a Clover Yo-Yo maker.  There is no disputing that they make yo-yo making easy. They're great if you want to make a great many yo-yo's or you need them to be a consistent size, but sometimes it just seems silly to invest in another sewing gizmo when you just need the one yo-yo because it would be just perfect, right here.... just to add a little.....  (I wonder if you can really stop at one.....ummm) Anyway, they're not difficult to sew, without a lot of fuss - honestly!)

Mostly,  I'm writing this  because I've got a yearning to explore all (perhaps I should say as many as I can find.....) different things you can do with yo-yo's and this seemed a logical place to start. So, I apologise because this post is a little self-indulgent.

The history lesson Did you know that the fabric yo-yo has another life where it is also know as a suffolk puff.  Whatever you wish to call them though they have many uses; as a method of constructing quilt blocks to make quilts, or cushion covers, bags, table runners, placemats, coasters .... anything you'd do with any quilt block really, as well as pretty embellishments.

Just think of the thousands of yo-yo's you'd need for a quilt! Yo-yo quilts were particularly popular during the 1930's and 940's using thrifted fabrics and those bits and pieces left over from other projects. 

How snuggly and cosy could a yo-yo quilt could be?

copyright Indygo Junction website

Yo-yo quilts can be constructed in two ways; one where the yo-yo's are attached to a fabric backing thus making a quilt top and then finished in the usual way with wadding/batting and a backing fabric. The other way involves sewing yo-yo's together into quilt blocks and then sewing the blocks together resulting in something more akin to a fabric throw than a cuddly warm quilt.

The yo-yo has also been widely used as a pretty, textural embellishment on quilts, for soft toys, as jewellery, and as embellishments on clothes and cards.  For me, it's the embellishing aspect of the yo-yo which I like most.

'A pattern from Indygo Junction' A bear made using lots of yo'yo's. The sewing lesson

The yo-yo is a little gathered piece of fabric. The fabric you use will change just how the yo-yo will look when you've completed it; for example a yo-yo in a very light cotton will have a very soft, light, floaty look to it whereas those made with felt take on quite a different appearance. Different ways of completing the gathering and applying them to other fabric will also give them very different looks from dainty little flowers finished with buttons or beads, to something which more closely resembles 'barnacles' or sea anemones.

Basically though a yo-yo begins as a circle of fabric.

The completed yo-yo will be half the diameter (width) of the 'starting' circle or to put it another way if you want a yo-yo that's 3cm wide when it's finished, you'll need to draw a circle with a diameter of 6cm plus 5mm for a seam allowance.

Requirements

• pencil
• fabric - cotton, felt, velvet, polyester cotton, sheers, denim - what else can you think of...
• sewing thread to match the fabric
• needle
• scissors
• paper or light card (to make a pattern with)
• Something circular to draw around - like a bowl or jam jar lid or get technical with a compass.
• non permanent fabric marker (to draw around template) or pins

1. First of all create your circle template. Using your card and pencil, draw around your tin lid, bowl, coffee cup to make your circle. Then add a seam allowance of 5mm.



2. Using your pattern/template, either draw around it with the non-permanent fabric marker or pin the template to the fabric if you prefer. (Sorry, you can't see the mark very well in the photo.)



3. Cut out the fabric circle.





4. Thread the needle with enough thread to allow you sew all the way around the outside of the circle I usually use a double thread because it needs to be quite strong to gather up the fabric. It's a bit frustrating if the thread breaks just as you get to the fun part.

5. Tie a neat knot in the end of the thread. Holding your circle of fabric with the right side facing away from you turn over your 5mm seam allowance and begin to sew using a simple running stitch.



6. Sew around the circumference turning over the seam allowance as you go. Once you've sewn around the outside (I usually take one stitch past where I started so that the circle gathers up nicely.)

7. Gently pull the thread so that the circle gathers up into a gorgeous little puff.

   Note: The length of the stitch determines the finished gathered effect. The longer the stitch, the more defined the gathers and the tighter the centre of the yo-yo will be. Small stiches create a more open yo-yo.



8. You may want to space your gathers out a little bit. Once you're happy that it's even, secure the gathers and fasten off the thread.

I usually take the thread through to the back of the yo-yo to fasten off the thread. It's quite neat that way.

Felt is another lovely textile to make a yo-yo out of. You don't need to turn under a seam allowance with felt to get a nice neat centre. you just sew around the outside of your circle. Beware of sewing too close to the edge, you don't want the thread to pull out of the felt when you gather it up.

The completed felt yo-yo. Pretty, softly defined gathers don't you think.

The three yo-yo's...

Three different fabrics; velvet, cotton and felt. Look at how open the velvet yo-yo is in the centre. I don't think that's very pretty but maybe if the finished size was larger..... it wouldn't look quite so odd... something to think about.

I hope you like this and maybe try out some yo-yo's. They're a great way of using up odds and ends which is in tune with the make do and mend, upcycle, recycle, reuse, re-purpose times we live in.

How do you fancy heart shaped yo-yo's next?

I hadn ' t forgotten...

This has been a week with little to recommend it because I've been nose deep in accounts.....Loathsome. Now, I know some people absolutely thrive on their little calculators and abacuses (or should it abacui ?), but really - I just don't.

They are a necessary evil but that's it. I'm happy to wander through life subscribing to the Mr Micawber school of economics...

"Annual income twenty pounds, annual expenditure nineteen nineteen six, result happiness. Annual income twenty pounds, annual expenditure twenty pounds ought and six, result misery. " (from Charles Dickens' David Copperfield)

Simplicity, that's the key as far as I'm concerned. Does this mean I'm doomed? (You have to say that loudly, preferably in a cave to get the proper booming effect.) Probably not, but it is a little stressful, all these numbers jigging about. My poor fingers and and toes are really quite sore. But do you remember this little lady;

Hilda has herself a new home and using the random number selector, Hilda is going to Kitty. So, Kitty if you'd like to e-mail me your address I'll send Hilda over to see you. Maybe over Christmas you may even get time to 'make' her. You never know....

Tutorial How to apply magnetic snaps

As you probably already know magnetic snaps come in different sizes and are available in different metal finishes. They are not recommended for use on anything which will come into contact with computers, laptops or audio equipment because of the possibility of upsetting or even scrambling/destroying hard disks and other delicate computer electronics.

On non-techy items though they provide a secure, unobstrusive closure which are relatively straightforward to apply and add a professional finish to bags and purses, particularly when combined with other matching metal hardware.

Not an easy photo - they kept 'snapping' together!

A magnetic snap set comprises four parts; one half of the snap is magnetic, the other part of the snap is metal and is 'attracted' to the other. They click together to make a closure.

There are also two backing discs or ' washers', with holes in which are fixed on the other side of the fabric to the snap parts. They fit over the snap prongs which are pushed through holes in the fabric. The backing discs or 'washers' are then placed over the prongs which are folded back to neatly and securely attach the magnetic snap.

I mentioned a while ago in a previous post that I apply magnetic snaps to my bags in a slightly different way to many. so, I thought I'd show you how I add magnetic snaps to my bags, books covers and anywhere else where they seem useful.

Here, I'm adding a magnetic snap to the lining of a small tote bag.

Requirements

• 14mm magnetic snap set (these instructions apply to any size of snap) Link
• 2, 4 cm (approximately 1 1/2 inches) squares of interlining or something to protect the fabric of the lining from the movement of the metal magnetic snap.
• 2, 5cm (approximately 2 inches) squares of interlining or fleece
• removable fabric marker - I used tailors chalk
• a few pins
• seam ripper - or a way of making two small holes in the fabric
• tape measure

Step 1-Mark the position of the snap on both lining pieces.

I want this snap to be positioned about 2.5 cm (1 inch) below the top edge when the bag is completed. So using the centre mark as a guide, measure down approximately 3.5 cm (approximately 1 1/2 inches) from the top edge and make another mark.

Step 2-Mark position of the snap

Using the washer (the back of the magnetic snap), as a template, lay it down on the fabric and mark where you need to make 'tiny' little holes to be able to insert the magnetic snap prongs easily through the fabric. Use these marks as a guide to where you need to make tiny incisions with your seam ripper. Go carefully now! It's just a little snap.

Can you see where I've marked the centre of the lining and then marked how far down I want the snap positioned? I use the 'washer' as a template to mark where the incisions need to be.

Step 3-Marking the interlining backing

Take one of the 4 cm (approximately 1 1/2 inch) squares and using the washer (back of the magnetic snap) as a template mark the position of the side slots using your fabric marker. Make small incisions in this with your seam ripper.

Can you see the marks through the slots showing where to make the slits.

Step 4 - Insert the snap through the slits in the fabric.

Push the prongs of the magnetic snap through the incisions in the fabric to the wrong side. Place the backing fabric/interlining over the prongs.

Step 5 - Apply the Washers to the Snaps

Push the washer onto the prongs and ... this is where I differ slightly from other tutorials you may find.

Some people like to fold the prongs outwards which keeps the snap neatly and securely in position. I have found that where the prongs stick out proud of the area occupied by the snap the fabric wears. I've sadly lost a few favourite bags this way so now I fold the prongs inwards. You may need to use a pair of pliers for this. It can be hard on the fingers otherwise.

It is of course your decision how you fold the prongs. Inwards or outwards?

Are you an 'inwards' or 'outwards' magnetic snap kinda person?

Step 6 - Adding a fleece cover to protect the snap from rubbing on the bag exterior

Take one of the 5 cm (approximately 2 inch) squares of fleece or interlining and place it over the back of the snap.

Disappeared?

Using a couple of pins, pin the fleece or interlining in position over the back of the snap from the right side of the fabric and take it to your sewing machine. The photograph probably makes this clearer.

In order to hold the fabric, the interlining and the snap securely together I machine sew around the magnetic snap. This is an optional step, you can just hand sew the fleece backing into position behind the magnetic snap to the interlining which will serve the purpose of protecting your bag from wear and tear from the metal snap parts. I like to sew around the magnetic snap because I think it adds a 'finished' look to the bag lining.

Optional

Sewing around the magnetic snap is not difficult if you take a little time.

Attach your zipper foot to your machine and have the needle positioned so that it is sewing on the side furthest away from the snap. It may be clearer in the photograph. Sew two or three stitches then lower your needle, raise your zipper foot and pivot.

It doesn't take long to do and I quite like the look of it. You can of course sew a square around the snap but I find that more difficult to do well than sewing around in a circle around the snap.

Click on the photograph for a closer look.

This is what it looks like when you've sewn the circle. Looks good doesn't it?

And on the back - ends tied off and snipped off ...... It's now all wrapped up in a fleece blanket.

All wrapped up in a blanketty bed! Keep your prongs off my bags!

Thinking about how many different ways everyone seems to interline their bags I'm wondering how many different ways we apply magnetic snaps? Go on, be brave, how do you add your snaps?