Gone To Earth

Psst...

I wanted to share this with you.  Look at these lovely charm squares;  Rooftop Garden by Moda and Modern Workshop by Liesl Gibson of Oliver and S.

Judith over at Rags to Bags is having a giveaway as a celebration for passing a 100 followers.  She's really excited and you may be excited about the possibility of joining in ?  It's open until Monday the 17th October so why not visit?

 

Whilst you're there have a good look around as there are so many gorgeous sewing ideas and it's dripping with pictures of bags and quilts.  Bet you stay a while :)

Speak soon,

Julia x

 

Bias Tape Makers and Bag Handles

You are probably very familiar with Bias binding? Made by cutting fabric strips on the fabric bias grain which results in a binding with stretch and flexibility that can be sewn around curves without kinks, rucks and bumpy bits spoiling your sewing.

 

Ready Made bias binding

You can of course buy ready-made bias binding but if you can make your own, then you can have binding in any fabric you choose and in which ever width suits your project.

There are, as always more than one way to make bias binding. Until I was faced with making bias binding to complete this stained glass applique for a course I'm doing I never knew they were so many different ways,; ready-made, fusible binding, binding made with bias-tape makers, some kind of implement called bias bars... I'd never come across those anywhere before.  But all that exploration and revelation led me to these tutorials.  This is a good tutorial on how to make your own bias binding; cutting the fabric and then sewing the strips together and this one explains how to make continuous bias binding.

(I wouldn't have wanted to make this 1/4 inch bias binding without a tape maker.... )

The reason that I'm writing about bias tape makers isn't that they take away any of that cutting out the strips and sewing them together, because they don't.  If you wish to avoid the cutting and the sewing part then you probably need to buy either ready-made binding or get yourself a sewing minion cum sewing slave.  But seriously, what these tape makers are good for is that once you've fed the strips through (and ironed it as it emerges) you get nicely folded seam allowances that fold right into the centre of the binding.  It can dramatically speed up the whole process, or is it just me that's slow at making bias binding? Obviously it still takes a little practice but then the process is always the same. An important benefit is that it reduces any opportunity of escaping fraying edges spoiling your sewing as the edges/seam allowances will be all nicely folded away inside.

Of course not all binding needs to be cut on the bias.  If you're binding straight edges you won't need to make binding by cutting fabric on the bias.  You can still use the tape maker as it doesn't know the difference and will still give you nice, neat and  evenly folded tape.

Have I mentioned bag handles yet?

Another thing you can use them for is to create nice evenly folded fabric strips which you can use to create a bag handle.  Tape makers come in all kinds of sizes so you're not limited as to the width of the handle you wish to make.

A fairly usual way of making a fabric bag handle is to multiply the width of the handle by four.  For example; if you wish to end up with a 1 inch wide handle then you multiply 1 inch by four, which incidentally equals four.  You would then cut out a piece of fabric which is the length of your handle and four inches wide. You then fold the fabric in half and iron it.  This gives you a central crease along the length of the fabric.

You then fold in one side so that the edge meets the middle crease and iron it again and then do the same for the other side. Add the interlining, fold it all back up to make your handle and stitch down both sides. Handle made.  Is that a familiar process to you?

You can also do this with a tape maker.  You  feed the fabric through the tape maker and iron it as it emerges. It'll be all neat and even and ready for you to add the interlining, refold and stitch.

(To create a one inch wide handle you would need a two inch wide tape maker (You would then fold the tape in half to give you a one inch wide handle.)

Should you wish to create a double faced handle (Perhaps with the exterior fabric on one side and the lining fabric on the other?), then you can use an appropriate sized tape maker for both fabrics.  (Probably a one inch tape maker to make two strips of one inch wide tape.  One fabric for each side of the handle.)

So, share.... how do you make your bias binding?

Jx

 

....and the winner is...

Remember this pretty little bundle of Valori Wells gorgeous linen fabrics?

 

Thank you everyone for joining in with this giveaway and I'm sorry if I didn't get to reply to you all.

I've entered the numbers into the random number generator and the result is;

 
and that comment was made by Mary.  

So, congratulations Mary.  I'll email you so that you can send me your address and I do hope you enjoy these pretty fat quarters.

Jx

Jenaveve and a litle giveaway

Jenaveve is a gorgeous fabric line designed by Valori Wells.  It's a blended fabric made from 45% cotton and 55% linen and is a massive 54 inches wide. So, you get the benefit of cotton and the delicious texture of linen.

Let me introduce you to a few of the designs.

This is Tribal in Merlot in deep pinks and burgundy background. Valori has just taken part in a Library show featuring her fabrics so take a look at her pictures to see the scale of this richly coloured fabric.

 

This is Leaves in Merlot which has a burgundy tending to brown background.  These pretty leaves are in pink, peachy pink and tangerine in colour and measure approximately 7.5 centimeters in length with each individual leaf being about 1.5 centimeters in long.

 

 

Pebbles in Merlot has pink and orange coloured petal shaped marks picking out this floral yet geometric pattern.  Take a look at the Martha Stewart website to see this one in action. (How to make a Reversible hat - feel tempted to make one?)

 

 

Pebbles in Merlot

Pebbles in Teal is just as beautiful in a gorgeous blue teal.

 

All of them are brilliant for all kinds of sewing....clothes...bags.....cushions... all kinds of things.

But. perhaps you'd like to try some?  If you do then just leave a comment on this post to enter my little giveaway consisting of one fat quarter of each of these fabrics (four fat quarters)., which is 1 metre of Jfabric for some lucky person.  A fat quarter of this fabric measures a hefty 50cm by 70cm - that's a lot of small bags !  I'll use the random number generator to select a winner next Friday. (September 9th).

 

Speak soon - Jx

 

The Sorbetto Top from Colette Sewing Patterns

You have probably already come across the Sorbetto top from Sarai of Colette sewing patterns.

 

(photograph from Colette patterns blog.)

What a gorgeous little top for summer and if you follow the link you will find a free pattern to download and print off and use to make your own Sorbetto.

Over the last few weeks Sarai has been modifying this pattern to give a Sorbetto without a front pleat.

 

(photograph from Colette blog.)

and a sorbetto with a scalloped hem.

 

(photograph from Colette blog)

 

This is such a versatile design ... wear it skirts, wear it with jeans... it can be casual or dressy, retro or modern.  Simple but brilliant and each version is accompanied with her very clear instructions and accompanying photographs.

 

(Fabric layout plans and making instructions.)

There aren't any facings to deal with as the neckline and the armholes are bound with bias binding.  You can see this more clearly in this photograph.

It has binding around the sleeves and neckline which you can see more clearly here. (photograph from Colette blog)

So, you can really accent the colours in your chosen fabric, but only If you want to of course.

I want one!  I like the version without the front pleat. So, I've printed out the pattern .... there are lots of pieces to stick together.  The first challenge was getting it to print out properly.  There's test page to print out with a square on it so that you can check that it's printing out with the correct sizing.  I only solved this by printing it from Adobe reader rather than from within my browser.

So, with the pattern printed out I can say that I've made very good use of the floor... spreading it out all the pieces and matching all the notches and now I need to stick it together so I can use it.

Unusually for me I haven't decided which fabric to go for but this is a contender....

 

This is Ditsy designed by Pat Bravo of Art Gallery fabrics.  Pretty don't ya think?

I hope you try a Sorbetto.  I'm sure summer will be back soon even though it's been raining for hours so far today.

Interfacing and Interlinings

Interlinings.....

At some point in any sewing journey we all have to get to grips with interlinings.  It's just one of those things. Sometimes it's easy to work out what you need because the design you're following tells you exactly which interlining to use.  Other times the design only  specifies 'interlining' and it's left pretty much to your imagination.

 

So where do you go from there ?

I've put this post together based around questions that I get asked via the shop and I've included a PDF document (at the end) that gives a little more detail about equivalents (The USA and Europe have different manufacturers names for interlinings designed for the same purpose) which you may find useful. 

So, what's the difference between the terms interfacing and interlining?  

These terms are often used interchangeably nowadays. But strictly speaking interfacing is used to support 'facings', such as those around necklines or buttonholes and interlinings describe something that goes between an outer fabric and a lining fabric. ('inter' 'lining' - get it? he he!) 

The function of both interlinings and interfacings is to support, stabilise and strengthen the main fabric.  It will change the characteristics and behaviour of the fabric making it stiffer, more durable and suited to many more uses than before.  Think about cotton being used to make fabric bowls and boxy style clutch bags.

Well, that seems straightforward enough so what's the confusion?

Interlinings come in different widths, different colours, cut off the roll, pre-packaged, as sew-ins, fusibles (single and double-sided), fleeces and wovens.  They also come in different 'weights', meaning that they add different amounts of support and strength to the project it's being used in. 

All that choice inevitably leads to confusion. Plus, across the world, manufactured interlinings designed to perform the same function have different trade names.  Trade names such as Pellon in the US for example and Vilene in Europe.

Also, please note, before I get too carried away, that anything can be used as an interlining.  A light cotton/muslin maybe all that some projects need and not manufactured interlinings at all.  Many folk for example use curtain interlinings as a suitable interlining for light tote bags.

Why do different trade names pose a problem?

It's only a problem because we're so fortunate to have so many sewing patterns available to us from the across the English speaking world... plus all those gorgeous designs in books which have been translated for us.  

But, (you knew there was a 'but' didn't you?) however well the sewing patterns have been written and supported it's often difficult (or not obvious) to know which is the most appropriate interlining to use, given the different manufacturers names for their interlinings.  A US sewing pattern for example, will suggest a suitable Pellon but if you live in Europe these may not be available to you, so then what do you do?

Hooray!  There is information out there to help so I've pulled it together and turned it into a PDF which covers a few of the interlinings you may come across.

So, why do I need to know so much about interlining?

Understanding or a least being aware of the difference an interlining can make to your finished project is a bit like knowing something of the 'tricks of the trade'.  The beauty of interlining (as unappealing as it might look) is that it can mean all types of fabrics become available for making items they were previously unsuited for.  Who would have thought it possible to use voile for bag making for example? 

But there are so many different types of interlining?

Basically there are sew-ins, which are designed to be sewn into seams and are usually cut the same shape as the fabric piece it's being sewn to.  They come in different weights; extra-heavy, heavy, medium and light and give light, medium, heavy etc support to the fabric it's being added to.

One thing to note about sew-ins is that they do not fray. So, if using a heavier weight interlining creates unwelcome thickness at seams then it is perfectly ok to trim the interlining back to the seam line in order to reduce bulk. For example if you're using a heavy interlining in a bag, you may wish to trim it away from side seams so as to get a nice flat top edge to topstitch around.

As well as sew-ins there are Iron-ons or fusibles.  These interlinings have an adhesive on one or both sides and are 'fused'/bonded to the wrong side of the fabric using an iron and sometimes steam.  The adhesive is heat activated and left to cool it forms a lasting bond with fabric.

(Note:  Some fusible fleeces (aimed mainly at quilt makers) are designed for the adhesive to disappear after a first wash, so it's good to know which fusible you're using.)

Fusible fleeces come in different 'lofts' or thicknesses. Both the medium and low loft fleeces add support and softness to your sewing. The higher the loft the thicker the fleece is and the more support and more definition it will give to your quilting stitches.  The low loft fleeces are more suited to smaller projects, small bags, soft toys and items that don't require as much support.

Other iron-ons have an almost papery feel and are bonded to fabric in the same way as fusible fleeces by the use of an iron and occasionally a little steam.  They also change the way the fabric feels giving a more papery feel.

Wovens.... (I love these)  These again are bonded to fabric with the use of an iron.  They are cotton so they feel a little like fabric but the grainy feeling side is the side with the adhesive on.  It bonds readily with fabric and because it has a bias in the same way that fabric has, supports the fabric but still drapes beautifully.

This isn't intended as a definitive guide to interlinings.  It is just intended to help point you in the right direction and perhaps clear up a few questions for you.  The question of which Interlining seems almost unanswerable when you first start out sewing but at the end of the day the best advice to follow until you develop your own interlining preferences (It will happen, I promise.), is to follow the recommendations on the sewing pattern you are following.

If you want to see how to apply/fuse a specific interlining to a fabric then this link (the Vilene site) will give you access to some short videos' showing just how it's done (Oh! and you don't need to understand German... or even English for that matter.)

Now, here's the link to the file I promised at the beginning Download Interlinings

When you get to feel really confident with what you're using... you'll be able to mix different interlinings together, fleeces and sew-ins ands really create the amount of support you want... but that's all for later.

I really hope you find this useful.

Make it Perfect Sewing Patterns

I added some wonderful new patterns to the shop a few weeks ago and they sold out so fast that I had to get more.  I couldn't resist succumbing to a few more designs. 

This is Afterglow which can be made either as a nighdress or a pretty little dress suitable for any occasion.

This is the back opening.

This is the Shearwater Kaftan a great throw over top for days on the beach or just out having fun.

There are some very pretty skirts; Flipsy for girls

 and Blossom (which includes a bag and applique design)

There are Fab Frocks for summer outings and parties;

 

For grown-up girls there is the A+ skirt design.   These are  a slightly different take on the classic a-line skirt.  Bit of a wardrobe staple the A-line skirt.

If you wanted some stylish pyjamas and a bag to store them in then there is this sewing pattern called Sweet Dreams.  You can also make the little bag to store away other overnight essentials.

So, that's a little taster of the latest sewing patterns in the shop.  I hope you like them.

Ginger and Violet - two new sewing patterns from Colette

If you love the modern yet classic and timeless designs from Colette patterns, you're going to love these two new designs. 

This is Violet.

Violet is a very pretty button-front blouse with a gentle and flattering fit. It comes in a multiple of sizes with optional sleeve lengths (one is elasticated) and is full of pretty details. The front of the blouse has bust darts whilst the back has a yoke with gentle gathering ensuring a flattering and loose fit.  It can be worn tucked in or loose and has a pretty neckline with a peter pan collar making it a modern classic which would grace any wardrobe.

The medium length sleeve variation. (photographs from Colette)

 

Buttoned front and extremely pretty peter pan collar. (photographs from Colette)

The back of the blouse showing the back yoke and gentle gathering, which makes this a flattering design to wear. (photographs from Colette.)

Pretty short sleeves and the gorgeous Peter pan collar. (photograph from Colette)

This is Ginger, a very desirable  A-line skirt design, which would make a nice addition to a summer wardrobe.

Ginger is flattering to most body shapes and is suitable for those with sewing skills from beginner to advanced. How does that work you ask?  Well, Version 1 has a pointed centre waistband.

(photographs from Colette.)

(photographs from Colette.)

 
Version 2 has a shaped curved waistband.

 

(photographs from Colette.)

Version 3 has a straight waistband, with skirt cut on the bias. Choose a striped fabric with Version 3 for a beautiful chevron effect at the front and back!

So, what do you think to them?

Fabric weight ....

(Fabric packs of quilt weight (medium weight cotton fabrics) from Amy Butler's Soul Blossoms range.)

If you're fairly new to buying fabric, it can be thrillingly exciting... so many different designers, so many mouth watering colours, and amazing patterns.  So, far so good.   But then something complicated starts to happen and you begin to see words such as 'medium weight', heavy weight, home decor weight and then the mist starts to descend and you really aren't quite sure what it is you want.

Basically fabric weight is a term used to describe the thickness of the fibres which make up the fabric weave.  

The fabric weight determines how the fabric behaves in terms of drape. Will it hang nicely, if my design has a lot of gathers will it still look soft and not all bunched up and stiff.

Heavier fabrics have a denser weave, think denim or corduroy as being a heavier weave. Therefore these are best suited to projects where they are likely to get 'heavy' use  and least suited to sewing which require nice soft pleats and flouncy gathers.

(From Amy's site - some pretty floor cushions in home decor weight fabrics)

Home decor/heavy weight fabrics are good for those places in the home which get a lot of use such as upholstery, cushions, covering dinning chairs, jackets, bags and purses because they tend to be more hard wearing. 

So how do you decide which weight of fabric you need?

There more questions to ask here than just fabric weight but generally when you're buying fabric you have a sewing project in mind.  If you're planning to make clothing with pretty gathers, tucks and pleats then you will achieve better results with light weight/medium weight fabrics which will be more inclined to flow around body contours and curves, rather than bunch up unattractively. So, think about how important the that is to the overall look of the garment.

(From Amy's s - pretty bag in Paradise Gardens in Midnight) 

If you're sewing garments where this isn't such a consideration, designs with a lot of structure for example such as A-Line skirts, bags or jackets then the heavier weight or home decor fabrics may be perfect.

(From Amy's site - The Sandlewood Jacket made with Sandlewood in Ivory Fabric)

Heavy weight fabrics or home decor fabrics come in some beautiful and colourful designs.  Just feast your eyes on these beauties.

Pretty aren't they?

Charm squares..

Have you ever been tempted by pretty little charm squares?  And then wondered what to do with them.

The beauty of charm square packs is that typically they are put together to include a range of colour, a good mix of pattern and pattern scale across an entire fabric collection. This gives you a lot of scope to create a quilt top full of glorious colour and pattern design.

But what can you make with packs of 36 or 42 charm squares that goes beyond just piecing the squares together?

 This is where this book may help.

'Charmed beginnings - A beginners guide to patchwork and quilting'

 Inside this book you will find ten projects of gorgeous quilts to make  and ten lessons teaching you the skills you need to make them.  

The book is aimed at beginners and the lessons cover skills such as, rotary cutting, quilt assembly, quilting and binding, lots of information about marking, fabric and fabric care. It also explains how you might cut your own charm squares as not all your favourite designs may be available as pre-cuts. 

The projects begin simply with piecing charms together with sashing to make a quilt. Every project uses and builds on the skills acquired in the previous project.    As you work through the book each design is just a little bit more adventurous than the last.

Look at this little beauty.  The Charmed Twist Quilt.

 

Tackle a little applique...

and then ...



... use your charm squares to create these basket blocks...

So, if you're looking for inspiration or somewhere to begin an adventure into patchwork and quilting, this may help.