Gone To Earth

LouLouThi, a nine patch block and a new addiction

A piece of fabric... ok, maybe one or two pieces of fabric, plus little sewing. Result?  A nine patch block and a new addiction.

This is a nine patch block that I was working on absolutely ages ago.  It's made up of prints from LouLouThi and LouLouthi Needleworks.  

 LouLouThi Needleworks has been designed by Anna Maria Horner and it represents something a little different in that the design on the fabric is marked out in little crosses .... and yes that means that you can cross-stitch the design for something wonderfully textured or you can use it as a cloth in it's own right 'cos it's just pretty.

(This print is called Vision in Pangaea.  The background is a soft cream with the various motifs picked out in different colours against it.)

My nine patch block does have an intended desitnation, it just hasn't quite made it there yet as I've been distracted by the rest of the piece of fabric I used for the blocks.  

A fat quarter of this is huge when it comes to cutting out little squares... because the bolt is a massive 54 inches wide.  Yes - there's a lot left, so I've been stitching that too.  Cross - stitching to be precise.

(... and I've bought some new threads in lots of pretty colours.)

I'm addicted to it.  I haven't actually done any cross-stich since I left junior school so it took a while to get back into it again but now I'm really enjoying having something that I can just pick up for a few minutes and then put down. (Actually it isn't easy to put it down. I'm finding that really difficult.)  I'm using Pearle sewing threads on this as I'm loving the slight reflectiveness of it.  I may not use all Pearle threads as that might be overkill but I'll make that decision as I go along.  

This piece is intended to make a 'small' (note the word small) sampler style cushion but that really depends how long it takes me.  It may end up as a small bag or small mat for the table in the hall.  Just now I'm enjoying the 'doing'.

Ruby by Bonnie & Camille

This layer cake comprises fabric from Ruby, a new fabric collection designed by Bonnie and Camille.  It has 42, 10 inches square pieces of fabric made up of 35 different designs.  Some designs are doubled up to give a good balance of colour, print and design scale.

Ruby is full of gorgous little prints, tiny scallops and polks dots and lucious florals in beautiful ruby red, greys, greens and a delicous aqua.

It's got quite a retro feel to it being inspired by the youthful optimism of the 1950's.

This is a link to the Moda Bake Shop and a wonderful quilt designed using this layer cake.

(Photograph from the Moda Bake Shop website)

It's designed by Corey of 'Little Miss Shabby;.  Pretty isn't it?

Bias Tape Makers and Bag Handles

You are probably very familiar with Bias binding? Made by cutting fabric strips on the fabric bias grain which results in a binding with stretch and flexibility that can be sewn around curves without kinks, rucks and bumpy bits spoiling your sewing.

 

Ready Made bias binding

You can of course buy ready-made bias binding but if you can make your own, then you can have binding in any fabric you choose and in which ever width suits your project.

There are, as always more than one way to make bias binding. Until I was faced with making bias binding to complete this stained glass applique for a course I'm doing I never knew they were so many different ways,; ready-made, fusible binding, binding made with bias-tape makers, some kind of implement called bias bars... I'd never come across those anywhere before.  But all that exploration and revelation led me to these tutorials.  This is a good tutorial on how to make your own bias binding; cutting the fabric and then sewing the strips together and this one explains how to make continuous bias binding.

(I wouldn't have wanted to make this 1/4 inch bias binding without a tape maker.... )

The reason that I'm writing about bias tape makers isn't that they take away any of that cutting out the strips and sewing them together, because they don't.  If you wish to avoid the cutting and the sewing part then you probably need to buy either ready-made binding or get yourself a sewing minion cum sewing slave.  But seriously, what these tape makers are good for is that once you've fed the strips through (and ironed it as it emerges) you get nicely folded seam allowances that fold right into the centre of the binding.  It can dramatically speed up the whole process, or is it just me that's slow at making bias binding? Obviously it still takes a little practice but then the process is always the same. An important benefit is that it reduces any opportunity of escaping fraying edges spoiling your sewing as the edges/seam allowances will be all nicely folded away inside.

Of course not all binding needs to be cut on the bias.  If you're binding straight edges you won't need to make binding by cutting fabric on the bias.  You can still use the tape maker as it doesn't know the difference and will still give you nice, neat and  evenly folded tape.

Have I mentioned bag handles yet?

Another thing you can use them for is to create nice evenly folded fabric strips which you can use to create a bag handle.  Tape makers come in all kinds of sizes so you're not limited as to the width of the handle you wish to make.

A fairly usual way of making a fabric bag handle is to multiply the width of the handle by four.  For example; if you wish to end up with a 1 inch wide handle then you multiply 1 inch by four, which incidentally equals four.  You would then cut out a piece of fabric which is the length of your handle and four inches wide. You then fold the fabric in half and iron it.  This gives you a central crease along the length of the fabric.

You then fold in one side so that the edge meets the middle crease and iron it again and then do the same for the other side. Add the interlining, fold it all back up to make your handle and stitch down both sides. Handle made.  Is that a familiar process to you?

You can also do this with a tape maker.  You  feed the fabric through the tape maker and iron it as it emerges. It'll be all neat and even and ready for you to add the interlining, refold and stitch.

(To create a one inch wide handle you would need a two inch wide tape maker (You would then fold the tape in half to give you a one inch wide handle.)

Should you wish to create a double faced handle (Perhaps with the exterior fabric on one side and the lining fabric on the other?), then you can use an appropriate sized tape maker for both fabrics.  (Probably a one inch tape maker to make two strips of one inch wide tape.  One fabric for each side of the handle.)

So, share.... how do you make your bias binding?

Jx

 

The Sorbetto Top from Colette Sewing Patterns

You have probably already come across the Sorbetto top from Sarai of Colette sewing patterns.

 

(photograph from Colette patterns blog.)

What a gorgeous little top for summer and if you follow the link you will find a free pattern to download and print off and use to make your own Sorbetto.

Over the last few weeks Sarai has been modifying this pattern to give a Sorbetto without a front pleat.

 

(photograph from Colette blog.)

and a sorbetto with a scalloped hem.

 

(photograph from Colette blog)

 

This is such a versatile design ... wear it skirts, wear it with jeans... it can be casual or dressy, retro or modern.  Simple but brilliant and each version is accompanied with her very clear instructions and accompanying photographs.

 

(Fabric layout plans and making instructions.)

There aren't any facings to deal with as the neckline and the armholes are bound with bias binding.  You can see this more clearly in this photograph.

It has binding around the sleeves and neckline which you can see more clearly here. (photograph from Colette blog)

So, you can really accent the colours in your chosen fabric, but only If you want to of course.

I want one!  I like the version without the front pleat. So, I've printed out the pattern .... there are lots of pieces to stick together.  The first challenge was getting it to print out properly.  There's test page to print out with a square on it so that you can check that it's printing out with the correct sizing.  I only solved this by printing it from Adobe reader rather than from within my browser.

So, with the pattern printed out I can say that I've made very good use of the floor... spreading it out all the pieces and matching all the notches and now I need to stick it together so I can use it.

Unusually for me I haven't decided which fabric to go for but this is a contender....

 

This is Ditsy designed by Pat Bravo of Art Gallery fabrics.  Pretty don't ya think?

I hope you try a Sorbetto.  I'm sure summer will be back soon even though it's been raining for hours so far today.

Interfacing and Interlinings

Interlinings.....

At some point in any sewing journey we all have to get to grips with interlinings.  It's just one of those things. Sometimes it's easy to work out what you need because the design you're following tells you exactly which interlining to use.  Other times the design only  specifies 'interlining' and it's left pretty much to your imagination.

 

So where do you go from there ?

I've put this post together based around questions that I get asked via the shop and I've included a PDF document (at the end) that gives a little more detail about equivalents (The USA and Europe have different manufacturers names for interlinings designed for the same purpose) which you may find useful. 

So, what's the difference between the terms interfacing and interlining?  

These terms are often used interchangeably nowadays. But strictly speaking interfacing is used to support 'facings', such as those around necklines or buttonholes and interlinings describe something that goes between an outer fabric and a lining fabric. ('inter' 'lining' - get it? he he!) 

The function of both interlinings and interfacings is to support, stabilise and strengthen the main fabric.  It will change the characteristics and behaviour of the fabric making it stiffer, more durable and suited to many more uses than before.  Think about cotton being used to make fabric bowls and boxy style clutch bags.

Well, that seems straightforward enough so what's the confusion?

Interlinings come in different widths, different colours, cut off the roll, pre-packaged, as sew-ins, fusibles (single and double-sided), fleeces and wovens.  They also come in different 'weights', meaning that they add different amounts of support and strength to the project it's being used in. 

All that choice inevitably leads to confusion. Plus, across the world, manufactured interlinings designed to perform the same function have different trade names.  Trade names such as Pellon in the US for example and Vilene in Europe.

Also, please note, before I get too carried away, that anything can be used as an interlining.  A light cotton/muslin maybe all that some projects need and not manufactured interlinings at all.  Many folk for example use curtain interlinings as a suitable interlining for light tote bags.

Why do different trade names pose a problem?

It's only a problem because we're so fortunate to have so many sewing patterns available to us from the across the English speaking world... plus all those gorgeous designs in books which have been translated for us.  

But, (you knew there was a 'but' didn't you?) however well the sewing patterns have been written and supported it's often difficult (or not obvious) to know which is the most appropriate interlining to use, given the different manufacturers names for their interlinings.  A US sewing pattern for example, will suggest a suitable Pellon but if you live in Europe these may not be available to you, so then what do you do?

Hooray!  There is information out there to help so I've pulled it together and turned it into a PDF which covers a few of the interlinings you may come across.

So, why do I need to know so much about interlining?

Understanding or a least being aware of the difference an interlining can make to your finished project is a bit like knowing something of the 'tricks of the trade'.  The beauty of interlining (as unappealing as it might look) is that it can mean all types of fabrics become available for making items they were previously unsuited for.  Who would have thought it possible to use voile for bag making for example? 

But there are so many different types of interlining?

Basically there are sew-ins, which are designed to be sewn into seams and are usually cut the same shape as the fabric piece it's being sewn to.  They come in different weights; extra-heavy, heavy, medium and light and give light, medium, heavy etc support to the fabric it's being added to.

One thing to note about sew-ins is that they do not fray. So, if using a heavier weight interlining creates unwelcome thickness at seams then it is perfectly ok to trim the interlining back to the seam line in order to reduce bulk. For example if you're using a heavy interlining in a bag, you may wish to trim it away from side seams so as to get a nice flat top edge to topstitch around.

As well as sew-ins there are Iron-ons or fusibles.  These interlinings have an adhesive on one or both sides and are 'fused'/bonded to the wrong side of the fabric using an iron and sometimes steam.  The adhesive is heat activated and left to cool it forms a lasting bond with fabric.

(Note:  Some fusible fleeces (aimed mainly at quilt makers) are designed for the adhesive to disappear after a first wash, so it's good to know which fusible you're using.)

Fusible fleeces come in different 'lofts' or thicknesses. Both the medium and low loft fleeces add support and softness to your sewing. The higher the loft the thicker the fleece is and the more support and more definition it will give to your quilting stitches.  The low loft fleeces are more suited to smaller projects, small bags, soft toys and items that don't require as much support.

Other iron-ons have an almost papery feel and are bonded to fabric in the same way as fusible fleeces by the use of an iron and occasionally a little steam.  They also change the way the fabric feels giving a more papery feel.

Wovens.... (I love these)  These again are bonded to fabric with the use of an iron.  They are cotton so they feel a little like fabric but the grainy feeling side is the side with the adhesive on.  It bonds readily with fabric and because it has a bias in the same way that fabric has, supports the fabric but still drapes beautifully.

This isn't intended as a definitive guide to interlinings.  It is just intended to help point you in the right direction and perhaps clear up a few questions for you.  The question of which Interlining seems almost unanswerable when you first start out sewing but at the end of the day the best advice to follow until you develop your own interlining preferences (It will happen, I promise.), is to follow the recommendations on the sewing pattern you are following.

If you want to see how to apply/fuse a specific interlining to a fabric then this link (the Vilene site) will give you access to some short videos' showing just how it's done (Oh! and you don't need to understand German... or even English for that matter.)

Now, here's the link to the file I promised at the beginning Download Interlinings

When you get to feel really confident with what you're using... you'll be able to mix different interlinings together, fleeces and sew-ins ands really create the amount of support you want... but that's all for later.

I really hope you find this useful.

My new bag...

It all began with a few rectangles of pretty fabric and a pair of circular bamboo handles.

 

It ended with this little bag.

I used  a fat quarter for the exterior and one for the lining plus a little medium woven interlining.  Just enough to give a little support but not enough to add any bulk.

 

This is so quick to make and it's such a pretty shape.

 

I hope you like it.... what it needs now is a name.  Any ideas?

Tutorial - An envelope back cushion cover

... or envelope back pillow if you prefer.

I love cushions around the house, they can add such a burst of colour and you can make covers like these with even the most modest of sewing skills. 

 So, lets make a cushion cover..... a simple envelope backed cushion cover.

You will need;

•  a cushion insert which are available from all kinds of places.  (My cushion insert is an easily obtainable 40cm by 40cm)
• Fabric  - enough to cut one piece the same size as the cushion insert, plus 1cm for the seam allowances.  (So, for a 40cm by 40cm cushion insert you want a piece of fabric 42cm by 42cm.)

 

 

(Lots of colours and patterns to create something beautiful with)

• Fabric enough to cut two back pieces each 42cm by 35cm. (Fabric used for the back doesn't have to be same as the fabric used for the front - mix them up for a bit of contrast if you like.)
• scissors or rotary cutter and board
• Matching thread
• tape measure
• pins

Fabric Notes: I'm using home decor weight fabric for this project but medium/quilt weight fabric also makes a very nice cushion cover.  You may not need to buy new fabric you may already have enough for what you need.  You can salvage fabric from an old unwanted duvet cover, sheets or curtains, use pieces left over from other projects, but be  bold.  This is not intended to be a beige project... beige has it's own place in the crafting world but it isn't here amongst the cushions.  Not today anyway.

To make your cushion cover;

Cut one piece of fabric 42cm by 42cm (this will help keep the cushion fairly plump looking.

Cut two back pieces 42cm by 35cm.

Hem the back pieces - Take one of the back pieces and fold one of the 42cm edges over by 1cm.  Iron this into place. 

(A handy little sewing gauge.)

Turn it over another 1 cm and iron that down to make your double folded hem.  Pin this down if it helps to keep everything in place.  

4. Take this to your sewing machine and sew down the edge of your folded seam.

5. Repeat this with the other back piece.  Remembering that if your fabric has a one way/directional pattern you need to consider this, as you will want to have the pattern all the facing the same way.

6. Place the front piece face up on your work surface.  Lay one back piece right side facing down onto the front piece, aligning the top edge and the bottom edge. The un-hemmed side edge should line up with the outer edge of the cushion front.

7.  Take the second back piece and place it right side facing down onto the other fabric pieces. Align the top and bottom edges as before.  The un-hemmed edge needs to line up with the outer edge of the cushion front.   

There will be an overlap in the middle, with no ‘front piece’ fabric showing. (This forms the the ‘envelope’)   

8.  Pin this into position to hold everything in place.

9. Take this to the sewing machine and sew all the way around the ‘square’, using a 1cm seam allowance.   Move any pins out of the way so that you don't break your needle as you sew.  

10. Fasten off any trailing threads so there's nothing likely to come undone at any point in your soon-to-be cushions life.

 
11. Trim fabric away from the corners to reduce bulk and give give you nice corners when you turn your new cover inside out.  

12. Turn the cover inside out.

13.  Give it a little press to tidy it up...

 

 14.  Insert cushion insert.

 

15.  Admire!  Fetch a book or magazine, make yourself a cup of tea or coffee and give it a road test.

 

Or then again you might just have to make one or two more ....

Enjoy!   

Christmas making...

If you're trapped stuck inside because of the dreadful weather outside, how about some Christmas crafting to keep yourself occupied?  I thought I'd gather together a few of the pretty christmassy tutorials I've seen around the blogging world.

There are Christmas baubles made from fabric;

Fabric Baubles from Martha Stewart.

A pretty mitten ornament available as a free PDF download from Oliver + S

 I saw this on Domesticali's blog - a paper pinecone.

 

Isn't that effective? 

Mini stockings, another pretty idea from Marta Stewart.  This would be good to make with children, probably occupy them for ages ... you can hope:)

A little more felt fun ...

Aren't they lovely?

 

If you've a bit more time on your hands, how about personalised placemats to add some festive cheer to your Christmas table?

Personalised Placemats from the Moda Bakeshop.

A lovely fabric chain.  These look like fun to make.

I've made these paper ornaments for a few years now... in each years Christmas colour theme.  I love them, they're not hard to make but they create a bit of an impact. 

You'll find the downloadable instructions here

How about a Christmas stocking?  Everyone needs one of those don't they ?

There is a free PDF pattern and instructions for this available from Denyse Schmidt's website.

or these from Tanya Whelan of Grand Revival Designs.  These are linked off on the right sidebar and come with pattern pieces and instructions.

What are you decorating your home with this Christmas time?

I've been sewing cushions...

I've been making a few cushion covers... 

Did I show you this one?

This is Amy Butler's Trumpet Flower in Pink from her Love home decor fabric range.  I've made the back out of Sunspots in Grass.

 

I've also made another out Vine in Ivory which is part of the Leanika fabric collection by Dena Designs.  I made the back out of Ticking in blue.

So, together with the one I made out of Paradise Gardens I'm getting to have quite a pile of cushions.

 

What do you think?

A bit of a crisis...

I thought I was going to sneak a few minutes sewing yesterday.... but it wasn't to be.

(My favourite little pincushion made from some scraps of Darla fabric.)

I get my sewing machine out of its bag, plugged everything in.... changed the thread and what's this?  The needle wasn't going down into the hole in the needle plate to pick up the bobbin thread.  Arhhh!  Why?  It was working fine when I put it away.  I changed the needle in case it had some how gotten bent ... no that wasn't it.

Nothing I did made any difference.  Panic set in ... I could imagine that this would take ages to fix and I don't have the luxury of time without a sewing machine.

But I was so, so lucky because in the next village a sewing machine business has been set up in one of these rural business units that seem to be springing up everywhere. I rang them, they said they'd look at it there and then.

I couldn't believe my luck, he was absolutely true to his word.... it all took less than ten minutes for him to sort it all out.  It just goes to show that it's often so much better to deal with people who care about their businesses.  They're moving into a shop in the town as they need to expand a little and I hope they do well with it because I really think they deserve it.

Now, my mini crisis over I can get back to my sewing.... I've a few sewing projects on the go...

 

 

Three pretty little patchwork blocks are crying out to become something... I was making a rice bag at the time and I got a little distracted ... but that's another story.

 Speak soon,

 Jx